The Experience of a Lifetime: Meeting Orangutan in Kalimantan

Indonesia continues to be hold the position as my favorite destination, in large part to the diversity in its wildlife including the numerous endemic species found in this amazing country. Orangutans are one of the most notable of these species as they are closely related to humans. While they can be found in zoos all across the world, for an opportunity for an encounter in the wild you must come to this archipelago, with populations only found on Sumatra and Borneo islands. As the world started reopening from the Covid-19 lockdowns, I took advantage and signed up for the chance to see them, a long-time bucket list item.

Nestled on the Indonesian side of Borneo island (known locally as Kalimantan), Tanjung Puting National Park is a natural paradise full of lush rainforests, winding rivers, and diverse wildlife. The park was designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1977 and a national park in 1982. The park is home to one of the largest wild orangutan populations along with numerous other species such as proboscis monkeys, gibbons, macaques, clouded leopards, sun bears, wild boars, porcupines, and sambar deer. You may also come across a variety of reptiles, including crocodiles, monitor lizards, and pythons as well as countless birds including hornbills and kingfishers. The best way to experience this treasure trove of nature is by taking a klotok tour down the meandering rivers.

Jenie Subaru is an incredible human being. Never before have I met someone so passionate. He and four of his nine siblings work together as local guides in Tanjung Puting National Park, operating a few of the aforementioned klotok boats. His dedication to the orangutan is outstanding. After ensuring his family is fed, he disperses what he can, including donations, to the purchase of land in order to prevent the encroachment of palm oil plantations, all to protect orangutans.

Jenie’s parents lived within the nation park and he spent his childhood growing up within the current bounds of the park. He started his work as a klotok crew member while in junior high school and after graduating from high school stepped up to a captain role. After dedicating several years to learning English, he became a certified guide in the early 2000’s. What truly makes working with him special is he is a true local and opted to start his own business rather than working with a foreign entity.

With my slower style of travel, I opted to fly into Pangkalan Bun in Central Kalimantan the day prior to my tour in order to explore a little of the city. Grand Kecubung Hotel was the perfect accommodations due its location, beautiful grounds, delicious restaurant and warm staff. Jenie personally picked us up in the morning to start the tour. On the way to the klotok, he provided welcoming information about the area and the history of the local people. It was a great chance to talk to him off of WhatsApp and see his personality shine. We boarded the boat, met the crew. Jenie’s brother Adi was our guide, our captain was Irus with Safar as the deckhand and our chef Mada. The entire crew was exceptional and ensured every moment of the experience was exceeding expectations. Adi spent much of the time to hang out with us to share stories and insights.

The boat was perfect with all the essentials for comfort available. I loved the big chairs at the front of the bedroom area, perfect for soaking in the breeze and watching for the wildlife. We proceeded directly to the first stop, Camp Tanjung Harapan, a leisurely two hour ride. Here we exited the boat and hiked into the rainforest where there is a platform set up for the orangutan feeding. As we walked toward the platform we already saw our first orangutan, ready to welcome us into their world. This first feeding we witnessed was amazing all on its own with five orangutans joining us, including a mother and her baby. I also saw my first stick insect while we are out watching them munch on corn, potatoes and other delectables.

After getting in a lot of photos, the orangutan started to head back out into the canopy so it was time for us humans to head back to our boats where we had a snack waiting for us to enjoy while relaxing until sunset. As soon as the sun was gone, we jumped back onto land for a night walk. On the edge of the dock we already had our first encounter, a beautiful Bornean Green Keeled Pit Viper, surely a sign of what was to come. The night walk provided a wealth of creatures including tarantula, sleeping kingfishers, frogs and even bioluminescent mushrooms. After all of these discoveries we once again returned to the boat for dinner, a shower and easily one of the best sleeps of my life.

The second day of the tour started very early to enjoy a cup of coffee with the sunrise. Joining me were a troop of long-tailed macaques across the river as well as a small group of proboscis monkeys looking for their morning feeding. Our breakfast was served and we set off down the river toward the next feeding spot for the orangutan at Pondok Tanggui. Along the way we saw herons, kingfishers, proboscis monkeys and a false gharial crocodile. This feeding session was once again amazing, starting with a young orangutan waiting to welcome us at the dock. This time we saw a larger group and were able to see how they interact with each other. One of the younger males came to sit with the humans for a bit too. We also encountered an assassin bug and a pill bug while at this station before making our way back to the boat.

Our journey to the next station, Camp Leaky, was interrupted by a rain shower, though this provided a great opportunity to stop off and watch more proboscis monkeys enjoying their lunch along the riverbanks. There was also a visitor on the boat when a draco lizard jumped aboard, a very unusual sighting. Upon our arrival at Camp Leaky, the orangutans took their time to come to the feeding platform which allowed a gibbon to come enjoy some snacks first. These beautiful primates are more elusive so I was excited to be able to see one. The gibbon was able to sneak off with a few handfuls of food before the big male orangutan made his appearance, taking over the platform. Several others eventually made their way over to grab their fill as well, with a total closer to nine showing up.

Once the scene calmed down we once again made our way to the boat to enjoy another snack as we cruised back down the river for a while enjoying a beautiful sunset. The crew knew the perfect spot for us to stop and enjoy a magical show of fireflies within the mangroves. Another delicious dinner was then followed by another relaxing evening and very restful sleep.

Once again the following day had an early start to enjoy a cup of coffee with sunrise and the awakening of the rainforest. Breakfast was served and the journey back to port was filled with a few stops to enjoy the proboscis monkeys along the river’s edge. Upon return to solid land, Jenie was waiting for us to conclude the tour.

Before returning to the hotel, we had a few more things to see. In town we stopped to see a replica of the longhouse of the local Dayak people and went to the Arut river for a leisurely small boat ride to see how the locals of this small city live today. Jenie was so kind to even treat us to a tour of the former prince’s residence and finished off with a delicious lunch at a local warung.

Out of all of my life experiences so far, coming to Central Kalimantan to witness orangutans in their natural environment easily takes the top spot for favorite memories. Not only are these remarkable creatures entertaining and mesmerizing to watch, they are absolutely beautiful. Gaining new friends with Jenie and his brother are a true bonus. I highly recommend this experience to all nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Contact Jenie directly to book your own experience today. You can also follow his Instagram account at instagram.com/jeniesubaru.